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🤷🏻‍♀️Did You Know? #1 - STRIPES Options
hedy mmm
Posted: Monday, May 3, 2021 1:31:53 PM

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🤷🏻‍♀️Did You Know? #1 - STRIPES

Dear Learners,

“Did You Know? is a series of topics I’ve threaded in previous years...for some educational, for others not. For those of you that were—and still are interested —I’ve begun again I will repeat some previously sent for newer TFDers on the forum.

This particular one tickled my fancy when a TFD poster asked what was a ‘Shadow Stripe’... It brought back memories of a thread of 4 yrs ago... so I dedicate this thread to (Hya) TFDer who threaded about pleats 3 yrs ago...there are about 18 different stripe patterns... I’ve only listed 9... enjoy!

With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. 

Probably the safest way to do this is with stripes. Checks are hard to get right, and prints harder still. But you can easily dial up the size and strength of striped shirts, until you find a range that works for you. One thing I’ve found in talking about shirt patterns in recent years, is that not everyone knows what the names of the different stripes are – or indeed agrees on their nomenclature. There are different associations in different countries, and sometimes inconsistent use across the industry. 

As part of the recent guides being done on men’s shirts, (so far including collars and cuffs), I am defining the shirt stripes.
Hairline stripe - A design with a very thin stripe, running close together, meant to be similar to a hair’s width. Usually alternating between white and a color, but sometimes color and color. More a texture than a noticeable pattern, and best thought of in that context. 

Pinstripe - Familiar from the world of tailoring, this is a design with slightly thicker lines – more a pin’s width than a hair’s – but also further apart. We will find, in general, that stripes can be divided into those where the spacing is uniform, and ones where it is not.
Pencil stripe - A small step up in thickness: usually two or three threads in the fabric rather than one. And usually the same as a pinstripe, in that the colored stripes and background are not even. Personally, I find this is the thinnest of stripes that can look good on its own. The others are best with a tie. 

This is also the point at I introduce variations, or perhaps sub-groups. For example a ‘Music stripe’ is basically the same as a pencil stripe (same thickness, same spacing) but is found in two colours more often. It is so named because it resembles the staves of music notation. A ‘Ticking stripe’ can be in many patterns, but is most usually similar to a pencil or bengal stripe. It is defined by the texture of the stripe, caused by the fabric’s weave, which resembles mattress ticking. 
Bengal stripe
Taking another step up in thickness, we get the bengal stripe. This is defined by its width, by its even spacing, and by being always alternating color and white. However, the first point – the width of the stripes – does sometimes vary while maintaining the other two aspects. Thinner versions can be called fine bengals, and thicker ones double bengals. A Ladder stripe is another sub-category is similar to a bengal stripe in end-on-end fabric.  Like many things in menswear, the origin of the name is British, but stolen from elsewhere. It was a pattern worn by the Bengal Lancers, a division of the British Indian Army, and inspired by stripes used on local cloths. It is probably the most versatile of all shirt stripes – in a pale blue or pink it can be worn with most ties, but also has enough interest to stand on its own.

Candy stripe 
One more step up in size takes us to the candy stripe, the spacing is still usually even, but the stripes are larger, and the colors often bolder and brighter. It is one stripe with quite a lot of inconsistency in use though, and the stripes are not always evenly spaced, or indeed bold in color. Most of the time, though, this is the start of casual-shirt territory: not necessarily to be worn with shorts, but unlikely to sit well with a navy suit.
Awning stripe
The largest stripe, and one that has become popular in recent years – probably specifically because of the lack of neckwear for it to compete with. The name references awnings used over shops, and it is the biggest stripe usually found on shirtings.
Butcher’s stripe
Now we return to stripes with uneven spacing, just at a larger scale. The big name here is the butcher’s stripe, which is defined by its colored element being larger than its white. The name comes from the traditional pattern used on butchers’ aprons, and that colored element is often strong and bold. 

It doesn’t have to be, though, and in paler variations the butcher’s stripe can be attractive and versatile. The colored element makes it more similar to a coloured shirt, such as pale blue, often making it easier to wear on its own. A variation is the reverse stripe, which is a general term for any stripe where the colored element is larger than the white; the actual size of that colored stripe can vary considerably. 

hedy mmm Dancing

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